Saturday, 25 June 2016

Module 1 Chapter 12: Towards an Embroidered item.

A piece of fabric based on wadding and brown cotton fabric, with scraps of various organzas held in place with brown and green tulle.  Machine stitching in brown and green secures the layers.  The fabric looks dull in the photo, but is more vibrant in the flesh.
 
 
 I wanted to have a play with more sun-dyeing to make the second fabric piece.  Some YouTube videos show Dye-na-flow being used successfully, but apparently most translucent paints will work.  I had 3 trays ready for a day when sun appeared, and yesterday was bright when I woke up, so I threw on my clothes and prepared the fabric - by which time of course, it was dull and grey!  However, the rain stayed away until early afternoon, so I got results, although with strong sunshine and a speedier drying time, I think the results would have been more successful.
 
1st sample - Dye-na-flow: I wet the fabric, a medium weight 100% cotton from myfabrics.co.uk, painted two colours on, scrunched it up, and left it in sun/dull conditions for about 6 hours.  The scrunching effect doesn't show. I need to repeat when there is constant hot sun for a couple of hours to see if I can get a better effect.
 
 
2nd sample, Pebeo Setacolour transparent:  The same result.  The dark paint was on top and exposed to the sun, but the scrunching effect still isn't visible.  Disappointing, but worth trying again when there is some sun.
 
 
3rd sample, Jacquard Textile Colour:  I don't know that the sun had much effect on this, but I love the result!  I've scanned the 'wrong' side of the fabric as it's a more subtle effect and quite usable. 
 
 
4th sample, Dye-na-flow:  Sun dyeing using leaves is difficult as there's almost always a breeze to disturb the leaves, so I wanted to see if I could get a result on an inside window sill where the leaves wouldn't be moved.  Again, there wasn't a lot of sun, and the results are supposed to better when the sun is strong and the drying time is fast.  It has worked though, which is useful to know.  The images were much sharper and clearer with the Lumi Sunfold product though - is the due to the product or weather conditions?
 
The colours are a great match with the sycamore seeds I collected.
 
 
The second piece of fabric made for the design exercise is one of the above, quilted.
 
 
From the brown fabric, I cut simplified tree shapes .....



and from the green fabric, leaf shapes based on the paintings of dried leaves in my sketchbook ....
 
A few arrangements using the above
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Pages in my A2 display book containing the above:



 
 
For my 3D assessment piece, I'd like to make a jacket.  The pattern I've chosen is a Vogue pattern with a couple of narrow panels in the front.  These would work very well in a contrast fabric that I could create and embroider.  Cuffs in the same contrast fabric could like good, so I may try to add those to the garment.  The photo on the left is from the pattern envelope, the photo on the right is one that I've created in a graphics programme to give an idea of how the garment I have in mind may look.
 
 
I found a skirt/trouser fabric that is a medium weight cotton, on www.myfabrics.com.  The fabric was on sale at just £4 per metre.  I've never dyed fabric this heavy so wasn't sure about the amount of Procion MX dye to use.  I tried approximately 1 teaspoon of dye to 100g of fabric, and this produced the colour and effect I wanted.  I used 2 parts Rust Brown to 1 part Black.
 
I bought a polyester lining in a neutral colour that I'd like to dye in a mottled brown/green colour.  Disperse dyes are not so easily controlled as Procion MX dyes, so I'll give it a go and see how it turns out.  I will probably do 2 dye runs; the first in a brown dye, the second in a green, and hope for the best!  As the dyes need to be boiled I won't be able to control how the colours work, but I won't stir the fabric and will hope to get a variation of shade, similar to tray dyeing.

 
I liked the brown fabric that I created for the preceding exercise.  I also like the border design produced from my rough acrylic sketch of a branch.  I would like to use these 2 ideas as a starting point for creating the contrast fabric.  The crystal organza and the angel hair, produced too much shimmer and shine for a daytime jacket, so more samples need to be done.  As I want the lining to coordinate with the created fabric, I will use scraps of the lining fabric in the contrast fabric that I'm making.  Although I like the design on the right, I think it's too regular for the border, so I'd like to play with elements of it, and use it to suggest ideas for the finished piece.

 
 I used Kemtex Dysperse dye in Dark Brown to dye the lining.  The change in colour shown below.
 
I've dyed the polyester lining fabric in DARK BROWN disperse dye from Kemtex.  The colour is nice, although not as dark as I had hoped.  The result is also remarkably even - and I was hoping for mottled!
 
I was planning to dye again in green, aiming for they blotchy effect that would be achieved by using Procion MX dyes in a bucket.  I now don't think that it would work.  I'll leave the lining as it is and work on making the contrast fabric a good match. 
 
 
 
Continued.........
 
I've tried a number of designs trying to blend the three panels.   As the jacket is for an assessment piece, it needs to demonstrate more skills, and more contrast in colours and light and dark is needed.  I've used designs from my sketchbooks, mostly based on tree barks, and some of the printing blocks I made.  I've tray dyed some fabric using Procion MX dyes in two shades of green and 2 shades of brown, and have auditioned this for the central panels, and for applique on the side panels. 
 
The brown panels either side of the decorative panel, could be dyed with 2 shades of brown - one a red brown, the other a yellow brown.
 
 
 
One design I quite like for the side panels uses printing with soft cut lino blocks, applique offset from the print to give a shadow and a dimensional appearance, machined lines and hand embroidery based on tree bark.  The two panels in the middle of the jacket will be simpler, with just the dark brown horizontal lines based on tree bark, so they coordinate with the side panels, but are not as busy.  The fabric used for the applique will be the same as used for the decorative panel.
 
 
There are a couple of options for using this design.  I think I'm leaning towards the one on the right, but with the leaves a bit smaller so the bark design is seen more.  In this design, every leaf will be different, so I wouldn't use a lino cut, but just paint the shadow on the fabric.
 
 
Not completely happy with the above, so have had yet another play, and I think I'm happy with the following.
 
The procion dyed fabric, has been painted with Dye-na-flow, small leaves put on it and the fabric laid in the sun. 
 

I like the effect, it's subtle, but noticeable.  I tried another piece with two different Dye-na-flow colours, but they look much the same.  I used ivy leaves for the sun dyeing on this piece and they don't look good, smaller leaves or may ferns will be more effective. 

I tried printing with a small leaf and twig stamp cut from a 'Foamies' sheet.  The brown fabric paint I used didn't add anything, so I tried mixing it with a buttermilk colour and that worked well.  I then tried stitching using designs from my sketchbooks.  The thread I used for the 'spiky' weed on the right is too bright, the other threads are muted colours and work well.
 
This piece works well with the made-fabric I was originally planning to use, so back to plan A!
 
 
At last, I'm happy with the design!  If you're happy with this Sian, I'll get started.
 
 

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